Above; The end of the line for The Northumberland Coast Path, which I had religiously but unsuccessfully tried to follow all the way from North Shields, Newcastle. Part of my penance for straying from the pilgrims’ route was having to walk alongside the extremely busy A1 for several miles. There are quite a few heathen drivers out there, wishing you’d pass by on the other side.

The  Bridges of Berwick upon Tweed taken from the bus route outa there; I only had 17 minutes to explore and make sure I caught the Sunday service  X18 back to Vera abandoned near the A1 in Fenwick, pronounced Fennnick.

Haste ye back to Bonnie Scotland. I think I might just do that…..but Wales is next!

Below; The Crimson worm represents my progress around England’s coastline, and includes Hadrian’s Wall plus Offa’s Dyke…..

The end of the crimson line on the Scottish Border, at Berwick upon Tweed.

Only the S W Coast Path left to complete around Land’s End.

Map courtesy of Ordnance Survey with my Crimson overlay depicting my route around England’s  coastline, plus Hadrian’s Wall and Offa’s Dyke National Trails.

 

 

Dear Rosie, Lauren, Stan, Jake, Rowan and Maisie,

Well. Well. Well! I did IT . I got to Scotland. Just by putting one foot in front of the other. Nothing special. But I do feel a tiny bit proud. Whatever you lot do – you don’t have to do it all at once – just put one foot in front of the other – keep going – and you’ll get there.

Rosie! Your winning the hundred metres was putting one foot in front of the other rather faster than I did and you have such a lovely action; Lauren, taking up the tennis racquet in response to Wimbledon, you are going to be good – keep practicing, small steps at first;  Stan, the man with a plan, already three Welsh Peak climbs under his belt and your football control is very good for your age – use both feet ;  Jake, tennis, cricket and football, Andy Murray, Jo Root and Harry Kane should be worried – you remind me of – er well – er , – me, but use the left foot more; Rowan , I’ve seen your Ballet clip, such grace – and attitude…practice those steps; and fearless Maisie perhaps smaller steps and less danger.

 

But The Walk goes on.  Next is the final visit to the S W Coast Path on Thursday to complete everything at Land’s End. We still don’t know whether the Northern or the Southern Crimson Worm will get there first, but Major Andy, Captain Donald, Sgt Andy and Sapper Stan will all be there to witness it. We’re staying at Mousehole AFC Campsite for any late arrivals.

 

NUMBERS

I walked 109 miles  in seven days, alone this time, on the pilgrims way along the Northumberland Coast Path, bringing the total to 3339 miles on 263 separate Walking Days.

Rav4 Vera has clocked over 150,000 miles, not all down to The Walk, but certainly, I couldn’t do it without her. Likewise the back up driver albeit 12,000 miles away with Omi, in Shaky New Zealand, where recently the ORBLAX amazingly didn’t beat the Lions. I find this incredible, since so many Kiwis were telling me until quite recently how poor the Lions were….. it is quite normal for New Zealand to go into collective depression when they realise the Orblax are only human. Just get in touch when you’re ready….

Walking  alone, gave time for reflecting on the previous well over three thousand miles I’d walked around England’s Coast and all I can write is that my thoughts are completely scrambled. All those worthy comments, pithy sayings and clever conversations made up along the way for outpouring into the blog have deserted me. I’m very weary, but not in a bad way . The sort of weariness that leads to a deep and long night’s sleep. Very satisfying. It’s a sort of Euphoric malaise – is that possible? Or smug, as Henri  would have it ( I make no apologies that only a very few will appreciate that).

 

 

 

 

 

When I get to Land’s End I think I will be very proud of myself. I might even be tired and emotional, with the aid of a bottle or two of NZ bubbly. I don’t drink much – so it won’t take a lot of bubbles.

Excuse me a minute , the screen’s gone all blurry.. Wherever you are, on Sunday and Monday at Land’s End, I’ll drink a toast to you all. If you’re wondering why twice – well there’s a Northern Crimson Worm and a Southern Crimson Worm and they both have to pass the finish line. Major Big  Andy is in command of navigation, tactics, strategy and logic, with a brief to get me there. I deliberately haven’t read any orders, so I can’t tell you who will win. We just put one foot in front of the other – and we get there…..

 

Enough of this blubbing – get on with the pictures,  remember I was alone; I couldn’t even stick to the Holy Trail, I may have strayed off the straight and narrow coast path, so don’t blame me if some of the pictures aren’t what I thought they were!

And finally congratulations to Terry, who this week climbed 3260 metres up the Matterhorn as the lone male in a party of five – that’s some baggage handling El Tel. Well done! It was the practice you put in on the  S W Coast Path what dunnit.

 

 

This day began from Baslow and headed North West to Manchester Airport when Marilyn was departing for Auckland and Omi. Leaving the airport, I sorted out the maze of the M60 and M62, heading for Leeds and eventually Widdrington, North of Newcastle, my base for several days, while I walked the Northumberland Coast Path to Berwick.

 

Near Widdrington but where’s the tent? I forgot to take my Campsite location picture until I was leaving. I originally booked three nights, but added two more nights because I was no where near Berwick.  I stayed a sixth night, because the circuitous route added miles to the walk. Thank you Seddons Camp Site for being so accommodating, and good luck with the red squirrels.

My car location pictures at Whitley Bay! Eccentric? What’s more eccentric? Imagine going into a Police Station asking for help finding the car?  It has been known!

 

As with so much of the East Coast, Whitley Bay is not immune from erosion problems as witnessed by the ongoing reconstruction of the promenade heading back towards North Pier of the Tynemouth Harbour passing the closed Life Boat House on the way. I was barred from the North Pier by an unwelcome notice saying open from 7am to 8pm. but It was firmly locked at 4pm. Inside the harbour it was as calm as a millpond .

 

Not very busy harbourside heading for the North Shields Metro Station. The Registered port for the dark blue and white boat was Kirkcudbright, whose name will evoke from Susan, John and Janet various amused memories of unnecessarily long name boards of our  youthful homes. I talked to the crew, hoping to get in touch with my roots, only to find that what I first took as a broad Scottish accent talking Gaelic, was the other local dialect called Polish.

I eventually found the metro and tried to pay for a ticket back to Whitley Bay and was informed no one pays after six o’ clock; apparently a local custom built up on fortuitously inoperative ticket machines and knowledge that  there are no inspectors after that hour. I shared the profits with a local sweet shop.  Reward for six miles that day. Not a bad start.

 

 

 

Religiously sticking to the promenade out of Whitley Bay, where I had some previous, on to St Mary’s Island and lighthouse approached only by causeway – not at high tide!

 

 

Moving out of Whitely Bay Heading for delicately named Seaton Sluice and into sand dune territory – not the landscape I’d anticipated- heading for Hartley Links

 

 

Arriving at Blythe on an informal footpath  – I’m free to choose my own route – which isn’t obvious. Following the south bank of the River Blythe after visiting the fishermen on the west pier, I’m corralled inland. There is no way over to the East Pier and he fishermen say it is dangerous anyway.

Blythe south harbour and lifeboat station

I head for the A189 along the River Blythe, to the nearest bridging point. But soon I am forced further inland to the A1147 to Stakeford and the B1334 to North Seaton.

 

 

.The inland route was uninspiring until I reached Newbiggin Bay, but the Bates Mine water treatment process to  cleanse rising polluted minewater was interesting and indicative of the mess previous industry has left behind.

 

 

The coast at Newbiggin Point….

………Newbiggin by the Sea,- St Barts Church where ex Army Surveyor Chris was perfecting his drone Survey of the Church . It’s a far cry from the  Theodolite and level surveys I trained with in 1966….. and subsequently worked with as a Site Engineer round the world. I still have a dumpy level and I’m not afraid to use it.

 

 

I just thought a plumber repairing a water pipe beneath  11,000 volt lines was shocking, as were the two sulkies happily amusing, following the coast road. Gettit?

 

The Power Station  occupied the foreshore and forced me inland but back on the beach again by Lynmouth and Druridge Bay. I found a very popular home made ice cream shop at Cresswell – I know – my paunch. And the RNLI  station told of many brave rescues, in particular dragging the boats several miles through the lanes because the seas prevented launching from the harbour.

 

 

 

Wild Life Photographers near Widdrington, had spotted a nest of White Barn owls and staked out these cottages. Chris with his tripod was not ashamed to be blogged but the others I respected their wish not to be photographed. Get in touch if you do read this and give me more accurate copy!

 

Playing in the sand at Druridge Bay – and a fishing boat comes very close to the beach dragging his nets in. They are my foot prints! But look at the direction of travel? How DID I do that?

 

 

Coquet Island – a Benedictine monastic cell and medieval tower  appear about a mile offshore – zoom in and read the notice!

 

 

 

The South Jetty and North Pier of Warkworth Harbour at Amble with brightly painted boats and a new Amble lifeboat station. More souvenirs – the shop was open and they opened up more,  for me to see the life boats.

 

The Elizabeth and Leonard moored in the harbour with the Rib under cover, but ready for action.

 

Lunch today is crab and crayfish salad with a beer at The Fat Mermaid, part of a modern harbour development at Amble on the River Coquet next to Warkworth Harbour. Delicious! If I’m careful, I can now eat seafood – as opposed to fish – which I ‘ve tried very hard with, but still can’t digest – even more so if the thing is still looking at me….

 

Following the River Coquet upstream to Warkworth and its Castle, we are now well into the Northumberland Coast Path heading for Berwick upon Tweed.

 

Leaving Warkworth via the bridges over the River Coquet, heading for Birling Links , the seashore and St Oswald’s way.

 

 

Approaching Alnmouth the circuitous way. A shorter route aong the seashore  and fording the River Aln was denied me because the tide was too high.

 

The Alnmouth Golf Course shares the coast path until the seashore takes over. Spot the ducklings being taught how to surf…..

 

Boulmer Life boat house. The path has become very formal and well maintained.

 

World famous Craster kippers being smoked and the Jolly Fisherman where I had another crab lunch. At first I thought the building was on fire!

 

Craster Harbour and the IRB Station.

 

Dunstanburgh Castle appears ahead – the journey is gentle and rolling, the last of the Rolling English Road

 

 

For the most part so far, the weather has been kind; the odd wind in my face; not too hot; and the occasional drop of rain. The terrain is undulating and easy to walk as I pass  NT’s Newton Point on my way to   Beadnall Bay and Beadnall

 

Starting  to move more swiftly along with the help of the coast path, road , footpath beach and dunes all being like minded, heading together in the general direction of my overall objective – Berwick upon Tweed.  I’m making good progress……

 

 

 

 

 

Walking along Annstead Links, Seahouses Harbour appears in the early evening. I like the look of that breakwater jetty  in the middle distance.

 

So much so that I sidestepped the gate and got very good views from the pierhead and extra specially rewarded with the  17-57pm fishing boat returning to harbour, with what looks like a huge catch of tourists!

Strolling round the harbour shops – all now closed, I spotted a print that I’m sure I might otherwise have purchased.

 

 

Starting again  next morning – Saturday – returning to Seahouses – parking Vera in an all day carpark, I wandered around the Coastguard HQ, the Lifeboat Station and a monument – THE RESCUE – to seafarers guardians.

Now aware that my time was running out. Today was my last full day of walking and I had 32 miles left to complete. Tomorrow was Sunday and half a day’s  walking’ and all that uncertainty of Sunday bus schedules.  I  checked that the best bus out of Berwick tomorrow left the Bridge -( which Bridge, there are three?) – at 14-17pm.  There was another four hours later, which would mean I’d probably fall asleep driving home.

I still had to break camp at Widdrington as well – better get a shift in.

and returning to the pilgrims trail at St Aidan’s Dunes. Heading for Holy Island.

Now we come to the bit where it all falls apart. For no good reason ST Oswald took his way AND the Northumberland Coast Path inland leaving Seahouses. I have no higher authority to consult or disobey – Nanny’s in Auckland – not Bishop’s – its namesake – 12,000 miles downunder. So the beach route it is then. Oh Wicked! Next stop Bamburgh Castle

 

And that’s when it started raining. I headed for the castle, but it was guarded by shifting sand dunes behind that innocuous grassy mound lie many and varied tracks and trails through the overgrowth. The rain in itself wasn’t soaking. It was the accumulation of moisture on the vegetation at body height, that obligingly tipped itself on to me as I shoved my way anywhere. I was drenched.

I spied an unusual gathering of people in costume – they weren’t wet – they obviously knew the route through the sand dune maze and were aware of the soaking guardian, qualities of the ferns, reeds, gorse, brambles and heavy bladed sharp grass. I’m not moaning , but they were very inhospitable and wouldn’t let me pass. Photographed one footman putting his foot on – his colleague wasn’t too gracious – saying the ambience wasn’t right – I just found that a medieval character getting dressed in the back of a modern car to re – enact some worthy skirmish hundreds of years hence,  was – er -interesting…. even though I was drowning inside.

Nothing would get me inside the locked gates to shelter and change into dry clothing, so I watched the battle. They weren’t holding back, and I think it was real blood. Better humour these guys; in so doing I turned tail and retraced my steps back through the soaking dunes, they reinvigorated and replenished with a fresh drop of rain.

When you’re really, really wet – you’d think another soaking is water off a duck’s back. Well! It is and it isn’t.  I kept up a good pace to fend of any chill and didn’t stop till I got to Budle Bay and found a friendly, unoccupied WWII Pill Box .

Midday .

Lunch.

Very wet lunch. I now know why I carry a complete change of clothes in plastic bags in my rucksack. More than one family group of hikers visibly veered off course as I dried out and changed. I’d always assumed the worst any time I came across odd  male – always male – behaviour in derelict structures; now I realise there might be quite plausible explanations.

 

 

 

There’s a bit of coast in the first picture below, but the rest is coastless terminating at the A1 with traffic thundering by and no footpath. Time to head off to Holy Island

WELL -I don’t know who set the course for the various trails  from now on, but they should really go and get their theodolites sharpened. St Oswald and his advisers  must have been at the mead and were taking the Rolling English road with them. Even though my map was a soggy mess, I could see a faster route to Holy Island. Unfortunately it required two miles alongside a very fast A1 clearway.  I held out till I got to  Fenwick, where the A1 intercepted St Oswald’s Way and the Northumberland Coast Path. Trades descriptions should be informed -there’s nil coastal to see here.

 

 

After crossing the main east coast railway line very quickly, I also very quickly came across the road to Holy Island. The tide’s in and the causeway clearly closed. , unable to part the seas, I left St Oswald to his way and carried on northwards along the Northumberland Coast Path, now firmly reinstated on the coast line.

That’s Holy Island over there! Retreat to the tent and hope for better tomorrow.

 

Upon  returning very early Sunday after breaking camp and leaving Widdrington  the tide had gone out but then came back in as it has done forever. It certainly wasn’t hanging around waiting for me. Maybe next time?

Now for a straightforward fast walk to the bus on Berwick Bridge; I followed the coast path all the way to the X18 Bus Stop. Here is the final half day in Pictures .

AVE ATQUE VALE BERWICKIUS!

Coffee at Goswick Golf Club – Walkers welcome! Alongside Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve

 

 

The coast path does exactly that – keeps alongside the coast unlike earlier. Eventually catch sight of the Pier marking where the Tweed enters the North Sea.

 

 

Lowry spent regular Summer holidays here and there are many such displays of his particular talent exhibited in Berwick, often exactly where he’d set up his easel.

 

And the last word goes to Berwick Life Boat Station

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a blog recording my progress walking round the coastline of England by way of a letter to our six grandchildren, Rosie, Lauren, Stan, Jake, Rowan and Maisie  .

There are 3.188 completed miles, with about 170 miles uncompleted,  left to walk. By the time The Walk finishes in November, it will have taken four years, with over 252 actual walking days so far, reaching St Mawes, near Falmouth, on the Southern  South West Coast Path; and reaching St Ives on the Northern S W Coast Path below.  Not forgetting Newcastle to Berwick on Tweed. . I need to travel at just over one mile per day……..

Unfortunately,  The Blog isn’t going as well as The Walk and Gremlins have got in and re-arranged the Episode  numbers. This is Episode 89 – if you are looking for Episode 88 then scroll through 89  and 87 until you get to the misplaced  Episode 88. I can’t think of any other way to correct this; if you can, let me know, please!

{Now ALL fortunately corrected with advice from WordPress – something about a STATIC FRONT PAGE?}

I also need to publish a sacrificial Blog  Episode, to see exactly what happens in the Episode Sequencing, without risking a full blown Episode.

 

Another reason for this non-walk reporting Episode is to announce provisional details of the Walk Finale taking place on Saturday, November 11th around 1-00pm at Southend on Sea Pier. I have been in touch with Southend Pier and asked if I can borrow it for my Walk Completion Ceremony and what facilities would be available? Toilets? Café? Bar? Is it open? As yet I haven’t had any confirmation, but they did ask how many people were involved.

Therefore, in an attempt to best guess spectator interest can you, dear reader,  let me know if you will be attending?

 

And finally, Terry is joining Elizabeth, Marilyn and The Writer  on the next journey from St Mawes to The Lizard and Beyond.  Anyone else care to witness this?

 

 

 

CAUTION – I am having internet issues – some may say operator error;  this latest blog is in draft form only.  In particular Guest Content has been compromised and is  incomplete.

    Keep returning to this Episode 88 and eventually you may get the full two fat ladies… 

The Harbour at Mevagissey

PROGRESS

Map courtesy of English Nature with my Crimson Worms stretching to get to Land’s End first; the Northern Worm at St Ives; the Southern Worm at St Mawes (Falmouth).

Dear Rosie, Lauren, Stan, Jakie, Rowan and Maisie,

Today is Uncle Donald’s Birthday – we won’t say HOW old because that makes Nanny and Bobl uncomfortable. For his birthday, amongst other things he got a new office. Before his birthday we all celebrated with an intellectual visit to Hay on Wye Book Festival. The first to suffer from your collective artificial intelligence was the HAY sign below

Rosie and Maisie, oldest and youngest share an ‘H’; Stanley is an ‘A’ Student;  Why Rowan?;  and Lauren and Jakie are thirty between them.

We learnt that security were mainly checking to see if everyone had read the books purchased last year. Consequently our party was not complete…

Maybe if Elizabeth keeps improving her Poetry she’ll be in line for Children’s Laureate next year, sadly Lauren Child beat her to it this year. But kids , you’re in for a treat later with another rhyming effort, and maybe you might find a shaggy dog story from the Cornish Ferryman embellished by Bobl..

Let’s start as we finished with the  ferry  boat ride into St Mawes from St Anthony’s Head

Kida – Cornish for Ferryboatdog Ice  Princess, plying her trade  across the St Mawes Harbour. Originally teams of up to six larger outboard  Ferryboatdogs used to swim in harness pulling the ferryboat to Atlantis, but mutinied because  crabs kept nipping them. Then they bred a smaller inboard inbred dog like Kida who powered the ferry boats purely on flatulence and  tail wagging. It was never advisable to sit downwind in a Sou-Westerly.

Kida can operate with only one crew, similar to that above, usually fed sufficient to coerce passengers to tie lines and put out fenders. Sometimes, when berthing, they train their crew to throw mooring hooks into eyelets, for which they are rewarded with biscuits. Obviously Kida has a crew with a good eye  and accurate throw, and a penchant for choc digestives.. and we saw Atlantis at low tide.

Resting with Cornish Pasty, awaiting embarkation at the wrong jetty, they needed extra draught to board overweight passengers such as Bobl; other passengers found the right queue;  and mid-cruise approaching  St Mawes. We enjoyed it so much that we stayed aboard to return to St Anthony’s Head. We were boarded later by irate crabs looking for dogs to nip, but Kida had cunningly disguised herself as a dogfish. Fortunately crabs can’t smell.  Like Bobl.  Bobl’s got no nose. How does he smell?

Terrible!

Sorry.

And now back to the beginning…. at Charlestown Harbour

I started with a Cornish pasty at the Tallships café also selling Cornish ice cream and clotted cream and reflected why, after all this exercise I still had a paunch.

Despite the weight handicap, and leaving the Back up Nanny,  I strode out of Charlestown around St Austell Bay passing Lower and Higher Porthpean to delightfully named Blackhead

Porthpean Beach                                              and St Austell Bay

and looking north and south from Black Head

Arriving at Megavissey, some might say Mevagissey.

Awaiting rendezvous  with Elizabeth at Mevagissey, she joined in for 14 miles, punctuated by rest in Marilyn’s back up Vera.

Rendezvous accomplished – next stop Gorran Haven. Notice the fluorescent gear, just in case RNLI are called out to search for us in overcast conditions.

Probably Chapel Point…..definitely memory issues..

Leaving Gorran Haven and progressing  to Bow or Vault Beach

Meeting Jurgen and Angelica from Heidelberg at Stone Cross, Dodman Point. Many Germans have visited this area highlighted by a German TV show at weekends. We must have met over fifty in all. We later met Jurgen and Angelica again in Mevagissey eating fish and chips from the same chippie and again as we adjourned to a local bar, where they fully approved of the local brews. Hope you enjoyed the Cotswolds J and A !

Portloe rendezvous with Marilyn and resting guest missed by minutes – maybe hours – so changed to re-rendezvous at  Gwendra and or Carne Beach, whichever hale well met first

Approaching Nare Head and Gull Rock off shore not forgetting to look back at where I have been walking. Enlarging the RHS photo would bring into view the Stone Cross on Dodman Point

And now it’s  head down, best foot forward for Portscathoe and St Anthony Head before meeting the ferry  at Place

We know our Place, where we ended up before taking the ferry to St Mawes and the lawn is more expensive to hire as a venue than the House. According to the intelligencia aboard the ferry, in between mouthsful of biscuits.

We now come to the guest content, which is causing me compatibility issues as in Beta Max/ VHS or, my era, Triang/Hornby .

I did have a rant about Brexit and England – but I just can’t be bothered any more.

Stay with me and we’ll have the Guest issues resolved before you can say ‘Elizabeth’

Here we go…..

I was forced to watch an Episode of Poldark. I really can’t see what all the fuss is about. Reminded me of Chelsea F C – All posturing, posing, poor acting and prostration (- can’t use ‘diving’ as it’s  had the ‘p’ taken out of it).

 

‘Deepest Poldark Country Again’

 

It’s June along the Coastal Path,

The gorse and ferns are tall.

Kestrels and Buzzards swirling above,

Bob stillO’England and it’s up tails all.

 

Pasties and juicy apples,

Coffee, Flakes and Nuts,

Contribute to his daily fuel,

And guide him through the ruts!

 

Slushy green undergrowth,

And fields full of lambs,

Bob and Elizabeth make their way

Slowly over sands.

 

Marilyn has a brand new skill,

(Not just providing driving and sustenance)

It’s counselling for walkers!

Provides encouragement and care,

For very tired talkers.

 

Cornwall looked at its best this week,

Blue skies, on layers of green,

Elizabeth looked for her Poldark again –

But he was nowhere to be seen!

 

High above the narrow paths,

The coastguard chopper whirrs,

Bob completed another 30 miles,

Of the coastline he prefers.

 

It is back to Cornwall once again(June 24th),

But Bob is on a roll,

Will any of you  be able to join us?

To contribute to his goal?

 

ELIZABETH ABBOT WATKINS.        Erratum – it was 33 miles actually – Ed!

 

And now more  pictures from the Abbot-Watkins collection……..

At Gorran Haven; then Caerhays Castle; Rosevine where Elizabeth’s son Hugh got married recently; Elizabeth at Portscatho posing and Bobl eating another Pasty.

 

And below – a rare moment where Nanny rests from Back-up driver duties in Vera; or Pasty Provision; or mobile restroom for weary poets.

There were more but I’m having real problems with the editing, so here endeth the Episode.

Anyone with experience of WordPress get in touch – URGENT!

Back Soon.

Perhaps.

Dear Maisie, Rowan, Jake, Stanley, Lauren and Rosie,

It was lovely to see you all in The Peak District for Maisie’s several Birthday Parties, and so much Birthday Cake!  We gathered near the banks of The River Derwent (Derbyshire Version) at Chatsworth, even though it is about as far inland as one can get, it joins the River Trent, which joins The Ouse, which joins the Humber Estuary which flows into the North Sea.  And so, we have a beautiful but somewhat tenuous  link to the Coast Walk. Although no additional miles were added to the Grand Total, it has changed significantly.

Bobl needs to go back to school for Arithmetic lessons , because the Walk Auditor has spotted two errors in his adding  up. It seems around Episode 75 an extra 200 miles were credited to the account, as a result of Christmas Holidays , sick leave for a bad back and a new hard drive for the Laptop, and generally Windows 10 being a pain.  A rounding up error of one mile  was also detected by Hawkeye the Accountant in Episode 83. These excuses, plus hiding the error in between fluffy pictures should obscure the incompetence.

The correct Grand Total Mileage Walked is therefore 3,085 miles, in 242 days.

I feel much better about this because the generally accepted England Coastline length is 2,800  miles, and allowing additional 250 miles for Offa and Hadrian, plus my predicted 275 miles to the finish, will mean only about 300 miles is unaccounted for, or as some might say, “LOST” .  I think being lost for ten per cent of the Walk is quite good?

Happy Birthday Maisie.  The next Birthday Party and first Teenager will be Rosie in June

.

Dear Maisie, Rowan, Jakie, Stanley, Lauren and Rosie,

Maisie’s movable  third birthday is coming up, so I’ve reversed the order of cousins to put her at the head of the table.  We will all gather together for her celebration. Although well not on the coast we shall find a Peak District river leading there and award it honorary Coastline status. But that is still to come in Episode 86.

For now  this Episode reports on the unifying  walk that turned the dislocated Crimson Worms into one continuous Crimson Worm, with its head near Padstow and the other end near Charlestown. Both in Cornwall.

Elizabeth joined us for the main walk from Looe towards Rame Head, and provided comedic relief from my solitary walking, while Marilyn acted as back up driver and mobile rest home. As with the previous guest walker, Elizabeth  also provided help with the written blogging  exercise after the walk was over. As Poette Laureatte  To The Walk she produced another poem, in honour of this part of the journey . In addition, continuous humorous conversation and evidence of also not growing up, authenticated  by various pictures to come. Again it was only when the accumulating miles approached twelve she became silent indicating lowered energy levels and well earned rest, or ice cream or forbidden alcohol….. I do believe at one rendezvous I passed silently by the back up vehicle for fear of waking her. But the rest revived her and she re-joined at the next halt.

 

 

MAPS      by courtesy of English Nature, with my completed coastal path highlighted in Crimson Worm;  singular because the North and South worms have been linked up in Episode 84. It is now a race to the bottom, at Land’s End. 

The Northern S W Coast Path halt is at Harlyn and Southern counterpart is at Charlestown.  Below is the overall view, still snowing in central England

 The unified Crimson Worm with both heads in Cornwall,  but a spur from Newcastle  to Berwick on Tweed remains.

 

This walk was 26 miles along the South West Coast Path, joining Plymouth to Looe including the Cremyll Ferry from Stone house. Elizabeth joined me on the mainland from Looe for over twelve miles heading for Rame Head.

In addition, I completed   a ferry crossing of the River Yealm  near Noss Mayo to Wembury. Last time out I got lost searching for the ferry and ran out of daylight, but this time refreshed and plenty of sunlight, I managed to complete the circuit. Billy the ferry owner took me across to Warren Point, from where the South West Coast Path resumed its way to Plymouth.

 

 

 

The other loose end to tidy up before our rendezvous with Elizabeth was walking through Plymouth from the Mount Batten Ferry to the Cremyll Ferry. A complete naval cityscape in total contrast to the usual clifftop walking, passing the Citadel under wraps, the Hoe, Smeaton Tower, RNLI Station at Millbay Docks, to the Cremyll Ferry at Stonehouse Marina.

Followed by the Ferry journey to Cremyll and Mount Edgcumbe and walk around Redding Point to Kingsand and Cawsand to Rame.

 

The next day, Elizabeth joined us after attending a family wedding in the area over the weekend. The walk  was from Looe towards Rame Head  via Seaton, Downderry, Portwrinkle   ( a prolonged stop in Honour of Marion in New Zealand), inland to avoid the Danger Area of Whitsand Bay, to Freathy and Wiggle Cliff and finally Rame Head, and rendezvous with back up at Rame Church.

And back to accommodation at Plymouth’s Premier Inn, cunningly hidden within an enormous traffic gyratory system so vast that only those born at the hotel can stay there.. We only managed by going in the “OUT” and out the “In” . Otherwise grudgingly better than sleeping in the tentbut akin to Hotel California

 

 

Leaving Looe, The RNLI, closed so no souvenirs; The tame seal , following in Nelson’s flippers; and the pier and beach early morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Let’s hear from Elizabeth’s Poem interspersed with pictures….

Elizabeth joined the convoy heading East at East Looe  for Plaidey, the cliffs were unstable so the footpath changed regularly from beach to road.

 

 

 

“Looking for Poldark again.”

Once more along the coastal paths

And through the gorse galore,

Bob, and old school friend Elizabeth,

Walked twelve miles and more.

Ice cream, Cornish pasties,

We tasted cider too,

Up and down the cliffs and coves

On our journey out of Looe.

We loved the caves and scenery,

(Sadly, we didn’t see Poldark)

Marilyn helped with the back up car

Until it was almost dark.

Views of Plymouth entranced us both

We were grateful to arrive,

We admired the gorgeous flowers

And Elizabeth was thankful to survive.

 

Revived by curry late at night,

We reflected on our day,

Talland Bay provided much needed rest

And a very comfortable stay.

Bob has just two hundred miles to go,

The best is yet to come

He has worn through many boots,

And had a tonne of fun.

Bob welcomes young and old to join him!

He’s looking fit and happy,

So if you have spare holiday,

Please make it very snappy.

Elizabeth. Looe. 2017

 

Refuelling the Back up Driver – that’s clotted cream as well….. I  think the waitress behind is bringing extra supplies?

Serendipity provided the ice cream van – we had two each – with flakes…. Paul Williams was the Ice Cream Vendor and gave us a panoramic explanation of the 360 degree view.

 

Next walk is the Coastline of The Peak District?  I know……

 

Map by kind permission of Ordnance Survey, with my completed route overlay in Crimson. My very detailed coast path is shown on my highlighted collection of the individual  1:25,000 Ordnance Survey Explorer Maps. I purchased every map with blue on it. This has created confusion  – you’ll find out why in two blogs time….

Wales is next; you can see why Scotland isn’t! Nothing to do with Nicola/Alex, just the length and ruggedness of their coastline. But I do think England is entitled to a referendum to decide whether we want Scotland to be independent or not…. the result might be interesting! So says Robert Duncan McIntyre. Who, in the light of Brexit, is closely studying his NZ Naturalisation; possible Eastern European ancestry; German association by marriage; French property ownership; and Welsh connections by conductance, convection or radiation. The latter highly unlikely, as I  have no musical gene whatsoever.

More parochially, English Nature are in the process of establishing The English Coast Path, due for completion by 2020. Hopefully they will follow the same route as me. Except of course my lost bits. English  Nature estimate the total length to be about 2,800 miles, not including Offa’s Dyke Trail ,nor Hadrian’s Wall Path; thus accounting for a missing  250 miles . My current tally is over 3,000 miles and growing probably to 3,300 miles. The discrepancy is not all about getting lost – there are many circuitous walks included.

I’ve had complaints! Sorry if the map looks a bit tatty; I’ve been marking it up as I finish each incremental walk and not always in a fit and proper state; often tired and emotional. It’s on the kitchen wall! I would  ask honorary cousin Mark to turn it into a murial(sic)… but I’ve no Wembley tickets left!

So (ironic); who is going to get to Land’s End first ? Bobl North or Bobl South?

ps sorry about the snow over central England.

So! Off we go again.

 

Dear Rosie, Lauren, Stan, Jakie, Rowan and Maisie,

Last week, Thursday 4th May, on my 237th  Walking Day I was walking around the Essex/Suffolk border at Felixstowe, Harwich and Walton on the Naze, aiming to join together the loose ends of The Crimson Worms  and  complete a continuous path around England, from beyond Padstow in Cornwall, up  Offa’s Dyke Trail and the West Coast, across Hadrian’s Wall Path and down the East Coast, around the Thames, and coastal Kent and along the South Coast to the South West Coast Path as far as Charlestown. I’ve now set up a race to Land’s End from the North and the South S W Coast Path. I win either way.

Very first of all I had to complete a Ferry crossing of the River Deben, not operating last time I was there. At the time, I was not aware that Mr Donald Rice, our former Headmaster at Earls Hall Junior School, had recently died, and I would have called in at nearby Little Bealings to pay my respects. He was instrumental in organising the original Vectis Adventure to the Isle Of Wight, involving children from three Southend Junior Schools in 1959. Several recipients of this blog   were involved and remember him affectionately. Thank you, Mr Rice for stirring the wanderlust spirit .  Not to mention the goal nets and corner flags, that appeared shortly after his Earls Hall arrival, nor the discipline that some of us fell foul of, occasionally.

Did you see how I avoided ending that sentence with a preposition, Marie? Junior School influences endure – I know all my grammar is being scrutinised – even as I write.  R,L,S,J,R&M, one is never too old to learn. I never went on another school trip, not the fault of Vectis Adventure; just the feeling that holidays are for football and cricket etc and in between there might be room for academia. Could this be the reason why writing the blog takes up more time than walking the blog

Scarred for life…..I now am paranoid about whether ’tis Earl’s Hall; or even Earls’ Hall; or just Earls Hall? Discuss!

job done! Landing at Felixstowe…..

And then, similarly, I had to cross from Felixstowe, Suffolk to Harwich, Essex.

After a trip around the Harbour, I alighted at the Harwich Ferry Pier under the overseeing eye of  giant cranes on the Felixstowe side. These watched over us throughout the walk.

These are they….

 

This 26 mile walk  from The River Deben, near Felixstowe, to Walton on the Naze completed several untidy loose ends and in the modern jargon, literally, gave me closure.  Illiterally, tiredness set in and, as a result, I got Blogger’s Block and verbal constipation, such that,  it is now several days finished yet I have written nothing.    Fortunately, my walking companion, Malcolm Mcleod, proved very much more able to provide constant good humour and written output than  walking  input, whilst operating on only one knee. Therefore you’ll be relieved to read, I have relieved myself of  writing this Episode, in favour of Malcolm, who received two written citations. One for Being the oldest guest walker, the other for completing the stretch on one knee.

I do believe that, having set the trend for guest walkers writing the blog, I predict the next Episode will follow likewise.   If only someone would take over the walking…..

In support of Malcolm’s input, I would add that, like me, he has never really grown up and he can easily attain the skills to talk up to three to nearly thirteen year old grandchildren. Let us just say the picture, taken by him, of me irrigating the countryside should have got censored.

Mrs Malcolm – or Diana – as she prefers to be known – kindly provided full board and lodging, the excellence of which was only partially subdued by Malcolm falling asleep at  the dining room table. In between mouthsful .

 Well, you wouldn’t look at the camera, standing alongside those pjs, would you?

 

Otherwise alternative accommodation was provided by  The Castle Inn Campsite at Ramsey, there’s the tent next to the toilets….

 

 

 

PROGRESS

Look! Just one Scarlet Worm stretching from past Padstow, all the way round the English Coast and back to Charlestown. The End is Nigh! Just the race to Land’s End, and The North Eastern Spur from Newcastle to Berwick on Tweed and I’m home.

Throw a double six and game over.

 

 

 

Rendezvous with Malcolm on Harwich Pier, with RNLI Station and shop crewed by Jim and Gerry, who sold me my Harwich Mug and a new black waterproof; how could I forget my orange outfit?

 

We stocked up on coffee and cakes ready for the walk in the Café on the Pier.

 

 

Let Malcolm  begin; uncensored verbatim from his email; sorry Malcolm!

“I am mobile again, but haven’t told Diana, so am getting endless streams of tea, coffee, goodies brought to me. Here are the photos and some thoughts from my side of the pain barrier which I hope will help with the blog.

So: (I do hope that’s ironic – Ed) The day was both agreeable and enjoyable despite the misconceptions that underpinned it. The first was obviously our different interpretations of the phrase “an early start”; you got up at 5-30, I arrived at 9-15.

 

The second was my assumption of learned and confident navigation of an O. S. Map by such an experienced traveller. However , thanks to your careful planning and my blind faith in the abilities Wally Allen had instilled in me all those years ago, we got by very well. I suppose for all who read  they may also misconstrue the word ;”ramble”; yes we walked esplanade, sea wall, seawall footpath , road, field track and back garden but “rambled” much wider in our 6 hour conversations – even if, towards the end talk was restricted to you saying “I could go and get the car; you could wait in this pub/bench/verge”.

 

Some highlights..

the view along the beach with serried  ranks of groynes as we left Harwich and passed the former site of “Hi Dee Hi” camp site;

 

the grey menace of the North Sea (before the tide went out !);

 

the shifting sight of the Felixstowe Cranes which must have been on a barge so often did they appear in a different quarter of our view;

 

 

Confident encounters with dalmatians and hungry horses.

 

Your excitement at finding a sluice named after Gordon Strachan;

 

 

My excitement at finding the Maybush in Great Oakley to be open and a sandwich shop next door. I won’t mention your excitement at finding the petite Julie, a volunteer (representative hockey playing – Ed ) barmaid in this lovely community pub.

 

The road walking was harder underfoot but mitigated by the thought that we made an attractive couple so close did those blonde Essex drivers come to us. The last mile or two were  a bit of a struggle, and thanks for your patience; left to yourself, I think you would have finished, gone back and packed up your tent long before I limped home. I suppose the last memory will be that we were not arrested, for what appeared a dubious activity as you were kneeling trying to get a second knee bandage over my boot!!               (Walking the Essex Way? – Ed)

Thanks Bob – I thoroughly enjoyed the day – Malcolm

 

 

On the final day I departed from Malcolm and Diana’s home in Maldon to visit Mersea Island and take the ferry to Point Clear, thus completing  the link between North and South on the East Coast

 

….and home briefly before setting out for Cornwall again – Looe to Plymouth.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The South West Coast Path ruggedness alongside a photo of one of Nephew Mark’s ink and watercolours taken from one of my photos of Polperro…..  there’s a lot going on here. Read on.

For more of multi-talented Nephew Mark’s efforts refer—————- markbuck.myportfolio.com

That’s the same Mark who recently played Wembley…….see episode 82 ! and below.

And talking of precocious talent, I learned recently, of a six year old climbing Snowdon. That’s a lot of Chocolate drops. Well done Stanley!

Stan on top of Wales!

Annie, preparing for Great Birmingham10k Race with  the Birmingham University Elite… and Rosie and Lauren Elite

 

 

 

 

PROGRESS  round the S W Coast Path

Map by courtesy of English Nature. Crimson overlay by ME, showing my progress in Crimson Worms. My money is on the Northern Worm, it seems to have sneaked up on the Southern Worm but….

….the gap between  Plymouth and Looe is due to be filled next Episode. Watch this space!

 

A little advertising……MAYDAY!

 

 

 

Dear Rosie, Lauren, Stan, Jake, Rowan and Maisie,

Three walking days this trip, returning to Lakefield CampSite (above) near Camelford in Cornwall, taking the tally of days walking round England’s perimeter to 236, whilst covering  3230 miles. My route is generally dictated by English Nature’s proposed England Coast Path due to be fully in place by 2020 . Navigation on the S W Coast Path is relatively easy, since there is a well worn track for well over 600 miles between Minehead and Poole. As the holiday season approaches more walkers are attacking it and it is often a case of follow-my-leader. It has to be attacked; if you don’t it’ll beat you!

Now the winter walking is almost over, I have developed a certain possessiveness and almost resent other intruders on my previously lone territory, particularly around touristy hotspots with people venturing out in inappropriate fashion; not so much baring flesh as tearing it on jagged rocks and barbed wire. Protection against the sun is difficult, with the powerful South  Western sun reflecting off the water and silica sand, and reaching all the tender places where it’s not supposed to shine!

I have a confession. I was  nearly forced to give up on this last trip. The South West Coast Path is an anachronism (look it up!). So beautiful; such colour, especially with new spring green grass shoots and bluebells, but decidedly deceptive, devious descents and ascents  and no energy left in my legs to put one foot  over the other. On the second day this trip, I had reached a point where the muscles were rebelling and nothing would work. Rests were more frequent. The stiles were higher and more cumbersome to negotiate. The sheep must be enormous here.

It was like trying to coax the last energy out of a fading battery.  No way would I ever give up, but what could I do if nothing was working? It was late, too. And I was due a rendezvous with Vera  in a Rock side street , next to a very hard place. I was losing it!

Serendipity took over. With added determination. The slope was now in my favour.  As I came down to Rock bottom at sea level to catch the ferry to Padstow, the sly, cunning contours realised they were pushing me too hard, and ahead, I detected a relaxation of the slope profile. I could look ahead at the topography and it seemed much more gentle on the other side of The River Camel, at Padstow heading for Harlyn Beach.  Perhaps I’m over the worst.  There’s something going on here that I can’t explain.  After all, I am in Arthurian Country. Very Spooky.

Unexpectedly, the ferry from Rock  to   Padstow was running a late service, and I paid the return  fare and had a relaxing, soothing, thoughtful, restful trip,  forth and back across the River Camel.  I think I caught a glimpse of a sword in the water? Excalibur….Eureka!  At the end I was almost restored and batteries recharged. And my Guini-Vera was waiting to transport me back to Camelford. Sounds a lot like Camelot….

-do you see what I did there?.

Has anyone seen my Holy Grail. It was around here somewhere?

I think I learned a lesson here – even on the walk, I should take more time out to enjoy the surroundings; whenever I walk against the clock, I lose something. So if I miss the finale in November I’ll be still out there walking some insurmountable hill, somewhere on the South West Coast Path.

Crisis over! I just lost my marbles , temporarily.

Best look at some pictures.  They are exactly as they came out of the camera – the order doesn’t stand scrutiny. I had to dodge about a bit to accommodate Vera, buses and rendezvouss. Someone tell me the plural of rendezvous. Sounds like something Rosie would know?

And something  for Rosie, Lauren, Rowan and Maisie. You must get down to see the Oss at Padstow. You will be fascinated. I got sidetracked by their preparations for Mayday and lost the S W Coast Path for a while. Perfect. More of that please! I found it again  next to a café – and a recently escaped family group of ladies celebrating their freedom –

Despite appearances and my sticks rucksack and hat, I wasn’t stalking anyone…..au contraire: Three ladies escaping from eight offspring, invaded my space while I was searching for my place on the S W Coast Path out of Padstow, over a cup of coffee. I warned them standard husband procedure in these circumstances is to wind kids up, feed them raw ‘e’ numbers and sugary drinks, and let them run amok. Rosie, (not our Rosie), Anna (not our Annie) and the only Looe in Padstow will pay dearly for their escapade. Enjoy your freedom!

Lastly, commiserations for Jake; sorry about Spurs; they should have beaten Chelsea but just didn’t convert obvious superiority into goals. But they have just beaten Arsenal. Which after all is what really matters. Bit like Wednesday and United, in Sheffield, eh Rob?….but at a higher level.

Never mind, you can hope the premiership takes a dramatic twist…….  When I’ve finished walking I’ll have to get out more – and visit The New White Hart Lane. But for now , next season It’s Wembley – just like Mark.

And as I  write Auntie Annie is due to start the Great Birmingham Simplyhealth 10k Race as part of the Birmingham University Team. Picture please. It’s on Channel 5 !

Bring on the pictures – there’s a lot – I just couldn’t cull them.

Day 234 –  Thursday 27th April     Parked Vera at Treknow and back to the path exactly where I finished last time out. Over the stile, say ‘hello’ to the Path ‘did you miss me?’ and I’m back on the road again….

Leaving Vera at Treknow, soon come to Trebarwith Sand, Port William and Dennis Point. The only difficulty is dealing with a change of maps – is it 111, 109 or 106 – or all three!

Treligga Cliffs,  to Dannonchapel  and Jacket’s Point; then looking back – I’ve walked all that!

All paths lead to Port  Gaverne and Lunch at Port Isaac – and a surprise….

…..surprise is lots of people at Port Isaac. I have to find my bus stop and bus time to get back to Vera parked in Treknow for now. The surprise crowd were camp followers of Doc Martin ,now being filmed in Port Isaac. It takes over the whole village. Excellent  lunch was at Ruby Tuesday’s – after their dog – not The Stones. They  also checked out my bus timing and place of departure. All went like clockwork as you can see from my on board bus camera. Thank you. Nice salad too! They did try to ply me with ice cream, but I didn’t  succumb  –  or suck anything.  One Cornish  ice cream and I’m anybody’s.

The local bobby might arrest me….can you see who it is yet?

 

 

A trip round Port Isaac  – so much going on I couldn’t resist exploring while waiting for my bus back to Treknow. The village is tightly packed and very uneven on so many levels. But  The Village seems to act together – they all support The Filming and in the black and white  days before colour was invented, they would all help when it came to launching the lifeboat through the narrow lanes – a very tight fit with men at the front steering and the rest behind pushing and shoving till they got it in the water . The safest place was up aloft on the path looking back at the harbour, although I didn’t appreciate how aloft it was going to be, later on.

Many thanks to Rock Television & Electrical Services for the parking facilities while I used up the remains of the day  bussing to Polzeath and walking back to Rock just in time to meet the evening Padstow Ferry. Why not? a return trip to Padstow beckons.